Understanding Climbing Grades: V-Scale, YDS, and French

The V-Scale was created by John Sherman in the 1990s at Hueco Tanks, Texas. It ranges from V0 up to V17 for the hardest boulder problems ever established. The scale is open-ended, meaning new grades can be added as climbers push boundaries. Most gyms offer VB (V-Beginner) below V0. Outdoor bouldering starts at V0, which corresponds roughly to 5.9 or 5.10a in roped climbing. V0 through V3 is beginner, V4 through V7 is intermediate, V8 through V11 is advanced, and V12 and above is elite. The V-Scale measures the difficulty of the hardest move or short sequence. It does not account for height, danger, or total number of moves.

The YDS is the primary grading standard for roped climbing in the United States, ranging from 5.0 to 5.15d. The system originally covered all terrain types, with Class 1 being flat hiking and Class 5 being vertical rock requiring a rope. Grades from 5.0 to 5.9 use whole numbers. Starting at 5.10, letter suffixes (a, b, c, d) subdivide each grade into four levels. Historic routes like the Nose on El Capitan feature sustained 5.14 climbing over 31 pitches. For beginners, 5.5 to 5.8 offers large holds and moderate angles. The 5.9 to 5.10b range is where most intermediate climbers spend their time. Breaking into 5.11 typically requires dedicated training.

The French system uses numbers followed by letters: 4a, 5c, 6b+, 7a, 8a. The plus sign indicates a half grade. It is the dominant system in Europe, Asia, and sport climbing worldwide. Rough conversions: French 5c equals approximately YDS 5.9, French 6a equals 5.10a, French 7a equals 5.11d, and French 8a equals 5.13b. These conversions are approximate because each system evolved independently. When traveling internationally or reading European climbing media, familiarity with the French system is essential. Many databases list both YDS and French grades.

Grades are not universal. A 5.10a at one crag can feel wildly different from a 5.10a at another. When a route feels harder than its grade, climbers call it sandbagged. When easier, it is called soft. Index, Washington, is notorious for sandbagged granite grades. A 5.9 at Index would likely be rated 5.10b elsewhere. The Shawangunks in New York humbles 5.10 climbers with 5.6 routes featuring extreme exposure and horizontal traverses. These variations exist because grades were set by the first ascensionist using subjective assessment. Regional biases persist, so climb at an area for a few sessions before judging your ability there.